Shannon Basic Sailing School Manual - Helmsmanship and Setting Sails (Unlocked)

Helmsmanship

HELMSMAN The helmsman is the person who is responsible in steering the Sailboat and realistically he makes the decisions as to putting up (setting) sails and when to take them down. Know the basic tasks and maneuvers of a Helmsman.

Sail Setting

For the purposes of this discussion we are assuming that you are underway with motor running and wish to raise (set) the sails. The mainsail should be set first..

• Setting the Mainsail - First determine your desired course and whether you will be on a port tack or a starboard tack. Also check the wind velocity. If the wind is under 20 Knots, You are probably OK to put up the full mainsail. If the wind is over 20 knots, put at least 1 reef in the mainsail.
  • Make sure that both sheet lines are properly routed, attached to the clew (bowline knot) and the working jib is slack and looped around the working sheet winch three times (CLOCKWISE) and cleated off or set in the self tailing stop of the winch.
  • Maintain minimum speed required to maintain steering control of the boat and head into the wind.
  • Connect the shackle (attached to the end of the main halyard) to the grommet located at the head of the mainsail.
  • Set the mainsail by pulling down on main halyard until the luff of the mainsail is tight. The free end of the halyard is routed through the sheave and then to the main-halyard winch which assists in properly setting the mainsail. Secure the free end of the halyard to the halyard cleat (Cleat Hitch)
  • The working mainsheet - (routed properly through turning blocks and brought to the mainsheet winch) would then be brought in until the flapping of the sail is under control. Do not be concerned about fine trimming the sail at this time. Fall off the wind sufficiently to fill the sail
• Setting (raising) the headsail(s), The jib would be the next sail to set. Normally a boat will have a selection of sails or a roller furling. We will first assume you have a roller furling jib since they are very common.
  • Roller Furling Headsail
    • Determine the Wind Velocity - First ask yourself the question. What is the wind velocity? Also check to see that your Jib sheets are routed properly (outside of all stays), and is secured to the clew of the jib using a bowline knot. The other end should go through a traveler, then to a block and then to the mainsheet winch. There are always two sheetlines attached to the clew of the jib. One is called the working sheet and the other is called the lazy sheet. The working sheet would be tightened using the jib sheet working winch. The lazy sheet is loose and would be looped 1 time around the lazy jib sheet winch.
    • If the wind is under 10 knots, you can let the headsail all the way out (150% see note below).
    • If the wind is over 10 knots but less than 15knts, you can let out about ¾ of the sail (100%)
    • If the wind is over 15 knits but less than 20knts, let out about ½ of the sail (70%).
    • If the wind is over 20 knots, I would seriously consider taking down the furling jib and putting on a heavier weight, smaller sail (storm sail). Once these essential sails are set, bring the boat on course and trim the sails.
  • Twin Grove Foil headsail(s) or Hank on headsails – Your training vessel “Shannon” has a Twin Grove Foil headstay which allows for fast and changing of sails. This system is more aerodynamically efficient than a furling jib but is not as convenient in a cruising environment. I prefer this system in Costa Rica because of the wide variations in wind velocity. The Foil Head stay is easier to completely change from a 150% 5 oz headsail to a 12 oz Storm Jib. In the northwest Pacific side of Costa Rica, this is a common requirement. So having said my opinion, we will get on with the lesson.

    Determine the Wind Velocity - First ask yourself the question. What is the wind velocity? Also check to see that your Jib sheets are routed properly (outside of all stays), and is secured to the clew of the jib using a bowline knot. The other end should go through a traveler, then to a block and then to the mainsheet winch. There are always two sheetlines attached to the clew of the jib. One is called the working sheet and the other is called the lazy sheet. The working sheet would be tightened using the jib sheet working winch. The lazy sheet is loose and would be looped 1 time around the lazy jib sheet winch.

    If the wind is under 10 knots, use a 150% sail. If the wind is over 10 knots but less than 15knts, use a 100% or 120% sail

    If the wind is over 15 knots but less than 20knts, use a 70% or 100% sail.

    If the wind is over 20 knots, you should use a heavier weight, smaller sail (storm sail). This sail will only go about ½ of the way up the forestay.

    If your boat is a cutter rig, consider using the staysail along with the storm sail or any of the other sails in the 70% to 100% range

    Jib Halyard – Connect the Jib Halyard to the head of the jib and insert the luff of the sail into the foil or clip the hanks onto the forestay if you have a hank on foresail.

    Set the Jib by pulling down on the Jib halyard until the luff of the Jib is tight. The free end of the halyard is routed through the sheave and then to the Jib-halyard winch which assists in properly setting the Jib. Secure the free end of the halyard to the Jib halyard cleat (Cleat Hitch)

    The working Jib sheet - (routed properly through turning blocks and brought to the Jib sheet winch) would then be brought in until the flapping of the sail is under control. Do not be concerned about fine trimming the sail at this time. Once these essential sails are set, bring the boat on course and trim the sails.